Bergerac sec, these wines offer a tantalising floral nose and depending on how they are created can either be fruity and zesty for drinking young or they can be rich and round with a complexity of oak barrel-ageing. It is an extremely elegant wine with dominant overtones of honey, acacia and peaches and hints of citrus fruits and crystallised ‘Mirabelle’ plums. And while the growing number of prestige cuvées demonstrates that Bergerac is capable of producing red wines of richness, power, and complexity, most markets still see the region as a source of cheap and cheerful wines. The latter specialises in a range of micro-cuvées of intensity and richness, though they can be marred by high alcohol. Soils clay-limestone As a wine appellation, Bergerac is an umbrella name for a host of wines, often rather basic, that can be white, red, off-dry or sweet. But if there’s a first appellation among equals, it’s surely Pécharmant, just east of the town of Bergerac. Merlot is the predominant grape, which means that the wines are softer and less tannic than those produced from a high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s rusticity that can damage the reputation of red Bergerac. It’s all very … "Tom is so knowledgeable and it was fascinating listening to his facts and figures regarding the Bergerac vineyards, grape varieties and all the hard work that goes into producing the delicious Lestevenie wines." Today, vine-growers try to combine the legacy of this tradition with the most recent innovations in oenology. Côtes de Bergerac reds are produced under very strict and rigourous rules. So often the grapes are picked at less than optimal ripeness and the wines can be astringent. A brief guide to these is shown below: – Pécharmant AOC. The Pécharmant wines use a mix of grape varieties: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot Noir. The result: round, fine, fruity wines. Laurent de Bosredon, owner of Château Bélingard in Bergerac, tells the story, possibly apocryphal though quite plausible, of the American tourist in Bordeaux who asked the Bordeaux wine tourism offices if they could recommend any estateshe could visit in the Dordogne. Tannin management is the key here, and this also explains why the earlier-ripening Merlot is more widely planted than the Cabernet grapes. But to many wine lovers, Bergerac rings the least sonorous of bells. Côtes de Bergerac White is divided into three categories depending on the sugar level: Medium Dry, Medium Sweet and Sweet. Bergerac as a whole certainly has its problems: no clear identity, being perceived (if on the radar at all) as another wannabe Bordeaux or as one of a hodgepodge of southwestern appellations; too many bog-standard wines to appease consumers seeking the cheap and simple, whereas the best winemakers know they can do far better; a lack of locomotive estates that can stand as regional flagships; and astylistic versatility that contributes to the lack of identity. ‘Monsieur,’ came the reply, ‘there are no vineyards in the Dordogne. Domaine Haut-Pécharmant and Château Tiregand are the best known, but there are other excellent wines from Domaine des Costes, Château Les Marnières, and Les Chemins d’Orient. There’s an exhibition about the Bergerac vineyards, film and tasting experience. I find these top cuvées somewhat garagiste; that is, over-rich, extracted and alcoholic. They are typically for drinking young and can be a good everyday wine. I bought this bottle of wine from a shop in London's Hampstead [www.oddbins.co.uk] for £12. Click Here for the wines Of Bergerac map *AOC is short for appellations d’origine contrôlé: areas whose names are reserved for the typical wines made in the region. – Cotes de Bergerac AOC: Cotes de Bergerac sec and Cotes de Bergerac rouge.
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