- Donny It isn't important that the marks are in the exact centre, but it is important that they are aligned. Go a couple of inches for each one - they do need to be about the same depth. Feed the bunch of strips in through one side of the core, with a layer of insulation under them, and clamp the leg flush against the centre. I left the shunts in for the first, trial version of this, using heavy wire, but took them out to make more room for the copper strip winding, and it seems to work fine without them. For the jaws, I used two blocks of wood measuring approximately 3.5" by 1.5" by 5", a 4" hinge, and two lengths of 19mm steel tubing about 10" long. Don't cut the rod yet though - then if you mess up you minimise the amount you waste. Mine gives about 4.4 volts. Did you make this project? Hold the rod against the tube and mark where you need to cut, then cut off the electrode you just made. Thanks! The welder is operated by a foot-switch which I made using one of the micro-switches from the oven, some bits of scrap wood, one of the long bolts from old self assembly furniture, and a spring removed from a liquid soap dispenser. If there is any gap in the fit of the piece of wood, strands of wire will get stuck in the gap and jam the whole thing up, at which point it will become very difficult. Owing to the change of purpose for the transformer, some de-rating should be expected (I have no idea how much). Tightly wedge the strips down the side with some flat scrap wood (this is important to prevent bowing of the turns) and feed the strips, one at a time, down the other side. taps and dies Thank you. The transformer I used had aluminium wire, so this was easy to cut through. small wood drill bits I see them on Ebay a lot for very little money, though they tend to be "buyer collects". Position the jaws and transformer in their final positions and bend a length of wire so it can loop around an electrode and connect to one end of the transformer winding, then cut it to length. Also I would like to leave open the option to use thicker wire at some point. The all-together method made it much easier to get the strips through, but it was harder to get good bends and the winding seems looser.Winding 10cm (4") hinge (Alternatively, you could fit the wire without the retaining nut, then fit the nut on top, prongs down, and screw the electrode into it, then use a standard nut as a lock nut, however I'm not sure this would be sturdy enough using the materials described.). Again, it should be a tight fit. The steel of the transformer has to be able to carry a lot of magnetism due to the high current involved. Break the core of the hole by inserting a drill bit into the centre hole and pushing it sideways to snap the wood across the grain. Fit the socket and mark it's holes, then drill them, also drill a couple of holes to screw the bracket down to the base board. 1 microwave oven transformer Screwdrivers The microwave oven transformer is factory wound to give a secondary voltage of around 2000 volts. Brass isn't a very good choice of material since it doesn't conduct as well as copper, and has a lower melting point, but it's all I could find. File the cut end to a short taper (or round), then fit the piece in the jaw of a drill and file it whilst it's turning to even out the shape. If it hums really loudly and gets hot, you have a short. I'll upload all of electrical schematics and code up to my Patreon as a freebie!Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/hlaps1990Instagram: www.instagram.com/tabletop_machine_shop Overview Crimp the pin a bit before you put it back in. Meaure up to a point about an inch above the top tube, and mark it on the bar. Test that the lever pushes the top arm down nicely. Do this by connecting it to the mains. Align the strips of copper as exactly as you can, ensuring the two outer strips have the sharp side of the cut edges towards the inside of the bundle, and clamp the leg-ends together in a vice. Screw the wire retaining nut you made onto the rod so it's nice and tight against the piece you soldered on. : This project is an outline of how to build a resistance spot welder using salvaged parts from an old microwave. Offset the holes from each other along the pipe so the heads won't short the pipes (which will have the welding voltage across them) Cut a M8 thread (or whatever size you are using) for about 15mm at the end of the rod. You need enough copper strips to produce a conductor with an adequate cross sectional area, so aim to use all the available space in the transformer core. I used a piece of aluminium to make the mains socket bracket, cut with about 1/2 inch past each side of the socket and 1 inch longer than it's total height. The jaws are made from short lengths of steel tubing I cut from an old rotary washing line which had lost it's line. DIY Spot Welder From Microwave Transformer | HOW TO - YouTube It would be nice to be able to insulate the electrodes from the jaws, but they do get very hot - even the tubes get quite warm and they aren't even carrying any current.Adjust for short cross dowels if necessary (Unless it's an "inverter" type which is not suitable). This should cause a tight bend where the copper goes back in. Measure the face of the core of the transformer frame and subtract the width of the strip legs, and divide difference by 2. Cut two copper washers with a hole which will give a nice snug fit on the rod - ideally you should be able to screw them onto the threads you cut. Fit each piece of copper onto a rod, get it nice and level, and solder it in place using a blowtorch, If you are using plumbers solder and flux (like I did), make sure you wash off the flux thoroughly as it is corrosive. I made this also, and I just cut one welding with a hacksaw and bent it open, stuck in a set of jumper cables, and super glued it back up, works like a charm! Retrospectively, I should have used 6 layers of copper, giving a rating of approximately 212 amps, however I had anticpated an extra turn of my winding and 6 layers would have taken up too much space. Make a second mark on each tube far enough from the first to allow for the thickness of the electrode, a gap of a few mm, and a cross-dowel, then a few mm again to allow enough steel to retain the dowel. Clamp the winding again, thin your first wedge by the thickness of the winding and champher it, and drive it back in - again, you may need to use a thinner wedge first. This is tough going, and you still have to handle the transformer carefully. My transformer has space for a winding an inch wide, and removing the shunts gave an extra 1/4 inch, which I left as 1/8 inch clearance either side of the winding. Brave you :), i need technical specifications of the transformer. A long bolt Get everything in position and make small marks to identify the edges of the bottom jaw block, remove the jaws, and drill 4 holes in the baseboard to take 4 wood screws which will secure the block. In the meantime just fasten the earth to the wood somewhere. Treating the strips as one, make a sharp right angle bend, the distance you just worked out, past the legs, so that the legs will end up in the middle of the core. Allow a few mm clearance from the outer edge of the dowel, then cut the end of the tube off. Is there any alternative for microwave transformer? Far better designs are possible, but I made this for speed and simplicity.Construction For the welder Cut strips so they are twice as wide as the space in the transformer and fold them in half lengthways. This goes at the inner end of the winding so that you can connect to it. I used bypass secateurs to cut the tank open since I didn't have my tin snips handy, however this worked quite well as it kept my hand out of the way.
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